Monday 29 April 2013
Putre and the Altiplano
Putre - the entrance to Unesco Biosphere site.
We were wondering why it is still so calm and genuine. We have heard some people saying that it is gonna be another San Pedro de Atacama. We do hope it will not be a second "San Pedro". It is so nice not to see tourists anywhere and enjoy these nature wonders on our own.We went to see most of the parks around: Lauca (UNESCO Biosphere); Las Vicunas (here are the viscachas which you can almost touch); Lake Chungará and Cotacotani Lagoon, where there are flamingos and other bird species - also "nandus" (a ostrich-like bird).
Flamingos
Colonial church in Parinacota village (in Aymara: "Parina": flamigo, "cota": lagoon).
No better place to leave behind your troubles.
The Parinacota volcano with the Chungara lake are breathtaking.
The only drawback of this area is that the main road from Putre to the Bolivian has large numbers of roadworks and vehicles.
Fumaroles of active volcano - Acotango. Scientists say that he is gonna die soon because he is smoking too much...
Lauca National Park and prehistoric cave art
Breathtaking altitude
We have spent several days on altitude between 3500 - 5500 above sea level. But not only the altitude left us breathless. Lauca is home to some amazing altiplano scenery, snow-sprinkled volcanoes, sparkling lakes and isolated hot springs. It's also shelters pretty highland villages and a huge variety of wildlife - not least the nimble-footed vicuña and the rabbit-like viscacha.
At that day, we visited northern part of the Park called Plaza Surire (Plaza = place). Thanks to our guide - Flavio (owner of Terrace Lodge in Putre) who designed the map of this region - we were driving to see red "moon landscapes" - volcanic landforms, and then visit several prehistoric caves in the canyon.
Taking rest on Llareta after a cup of Aymara herbal remedy chachacoma :)
Green cushions
Llaretas - are green plants occurring in the Puna grasslands of the Andes in Peru, Bolivia, the north of Chile and the west of Argentina at between 3,200 and 4,500 metres altitude. The plant grows 1.5mm/year.
Moon landscape of Suri Plaza
The canyon
Undiscovered cave paintings
Starting from Suri Plaza, we walked along the canyon to see paintings found on caves walls of undetermined historic origin. According to our guide, those are not exposed to a public. The knowledge about it were passed from grandfather to a son and as it's pretty hidden deep in the canyon, not many people know about it. Maybe it's better like this.
After 1 hour walk down the canyon we reached the caves.
We were very impressed by the state of the paintings.
In some caves they are pretty easy accessible - and therefore damaged by erosion. But in this one - they are very well maintained.
In some caves they are pretty easy accessible - and therefore damaged by erosion. But in this one - they are very well maintained.
The exact purpose of the paleolithic cave paintings is not known. Evidence suggests that they were not merely decorations of living areas, since the caves in which they have been found do not have signs of ongoing habitation. They are also often located in areas of caves that are not easily accessible. Some theories hold that cave paintings may have been a way of communicating with others, while other theories ascribe a religious or ceremonial purpose to them. (from Wikipedia).
We are not sure which time exactly does the paintning come from. If it shows llamas/alpacas - it must be younger than around 4,000 B.C. This was when Llamas were domesticated by the Tiwanaku in the higher Andes Mountains near Lake Titicaca. If the paintings show vicunas - it must be much older.
Impressive, isn't it?
Friday 26 April 2013
Wednesday 24 April 2013
How to get a bus from Chile to Bolivia
...well, it all starts with buying a bus ticket. Done. OK.
Next thing is to explain to the bus company, that we would like to hop on the bus not at the usual departure point, but on the way. Usually, no problem at all, as they are veeeery flexible in general :-).
The instructions we got then were the following:
Just be at the crossing of the two roads (not in the center but 5 km out of town) at 11am and please remind us one day before, that we should stop there to pick you up. Hmmm, sounds promising ;-).
Well, 11am sharp, we arrived at the crossing...however it was super busy that day. Why? Because the Chilean Police used the space to install a check point for Bolivian trucks coming across the border.
We decided then, to join them and sit on the side of the road...the next hour turned out to be fun :-).
The group of 3 police men were standing on the road, observing the trucks (you could see them from far) coming towards them and almost pokering about which one they are going to check. There was a heavy discussion about either the blue one, the red one or the white one. Finally, they checked all :-).
When the first truck arrived, the truckdriver came stepped out and came towards the policeman. The officer however was in a funny mood, so that he told him to stop walking and to continue at least 10 times...the truckdriver of course did so :-)...and we were just sitting at the side of the road...observing and silently laughing :-).
Next truck, next scene: the oil trailer was checked carefully...one officer climbed on top of the trailer and what he found there was so stimulating to him, that he decided to take the loose, large O-rings, to juggle with them in both hands. The picture was just brillant, the guy on top of the trailer juggling with two big o-rings and his colleague confronting the driver what this is. Fantastic.
Finally, the guys came to us and spoke with us a little. We told them that we want to go to Bolivia and waiting for the bus. They assured us, that our company didn`t come through already...when the bus finally was in sight, they asked us if that was ours. We confirmed.
Then the police man was standing on the road, stopping the bus for us and waived him out to the side of the road. The driver was pretty relieved, as he noted that its "just" because of two more passengers :-). And yes, the bus had only little delay of one hour :-)...
Next thing is to explain to the bus company, that we would like to hop on the bus not at the usual departure point, but on the way. Usually, no problem at all, as they are veeeery flexible in general :-).
The instructions we got then were the following:
Just be at the crossing of the two roads (not in the center but 5 km out of town) at 11am and please remind us one day before, that we should stop there to pick you up. Hmmm, sounds promising ;-).
Well, 11am sharp, we arrived at the crossing...however it was super busy that day. Why? Because the Chilean Police used the space to install a check point for Bolivian trucks coming across the border.
We decided then, to join them and sit on the side of the road...the next hour turned out to be fun :-).
The group of 3 police men were standing on the road, observing the trucks (you could see them from far) coming towards them and almost pokering about which one they are going to check. There was a heavy discussion about either the blue one, the red one or the white one. Finally, they checked all :-).
When the first truck arrived, the truckdriver came stepped out and came towards the policeman. The officer however was in a funny mood, so that he told him to stop walking and to continue at least 10 times...the truckdriver of course did so :-)...and we were just sitting at the side of the road...observing and silently laughing :-).
Next truck, next scene: the oil trailer was checked carefully...one officer climbed on top of the trailer and what he found there was so stimulating to him, that he decided to take the loose, large O-rings, to juggle with them in both hands. The picture was just brillant, the guy on top of the trailer juggling with two big o-rings and his colleague confronting the driver what this is. Fantastic.
Finally, the guys came to us and spoke with us a little. We told them that we want to go to Bolivia and waiting for the bus. They assured us, that our company didn`t come through already...when the bus finally was in sight, they asked us if that was ours. We confirmed.
Then the police man was standing on the road, stopping the bus for us and waived him out to the side of the road. The driver was pretty relieved, as he noted that its "just" because of two more passengers :-). And yes, the bus had only little delay of one hour :-)...
Monday 22 April 2013
Plants/Herbs/Teas
What unites all countries of South-America is, that there are a lot of plants/herbs etc, which are used in daily life, mostly with some (medical) effects. AND mostly, they cannot be imported to Europe :-).
COCA
As tea or simply by chewing the leaves, Coca is used mostly to avoid the the bad effects of altitude such as headache or dizziness. And yes, its the same leaves, Cocaine is made of. However, of course, the concentration in the tea is about 80% lower.
Mate de Coca (Coca Tea) was offered in most of the hostals, hotels, B&B in which we stayed...and it tastes really good! The chewing on the leaves version however is a bit "special". Its a kind of weired feeling to have the leaves all the time in your mouth chewing them...once you smile, the leaves are all over your teeth :-). But we met many locals, for who this is a daily ongoing activity :-).
Meanwhile, there are also Coca bonbons for a change.
For Europeans however, it appears to be a strange thing to get Coca Products everywhere. At St Pedro de Atacama we observed an older French couple, who secretly whispered to the shop assistant, if he has some Coca bonbons. They where pretty embarrassed as he responded loudly that he doesn`t have them here but they can be found around the corner...funny moment :-).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coca_tea
Rica Rica
Also good to get rid of the bad impact of the altitude, this herb can be found on the Altiplanica, meaning at around 3500-4000m above sea level.Its just a matter of finding the plant, as it only gets to about 40cm high at the max. But we found it :-)...
Locals are using it as cure for stomach ache, to clean up the kidneys and for heart issues. The taste is quite fresh, sweet and remembers one to the smell of wood. All in all very tasty. And the entire taste comes from only a little branch of the plant.
Chachacoma
Growing in the same altitude than Rica Rica, this third plant is as well used to remain fit in high altitudes.
To describe the taste is quite difficult; must be something between...well, its really hard to say. Lets just say it tastes delicious and I would drink also for the 4 o`clock tea together with some cookies.
COCA
As tea or simply by chewing the leaves, Coca is used mostly to avoid the the bad effects of altitude such as headache or dizziness. And yes, its the same leaves, Cocaine is made of. However, of course, the concentration in the tea is about 80% lower.
Mate de Coca (Coca Tea) was offered in most of the hostals, hotels, B&B in which we stayed...and it tastes really good! The chewing on the leaves version however is a bit "special". Its a kind of weired feeling to have the leaves all the time in your mouth chewing them...once you smile, the leaves are all over your teeth :-). But we met many locals, for who this is a daily ongoing activity :-).
Meanwhile, there are also Coca bonbons for a change.
For Europeans however, it appears to be a strange thing to get Coca Products everywhere. At St Pedro de Atacama we observed an older French couple, who secretly whispered to the shop assistant, if he has some Coca bonbons. They where pretty embarrassed as he responded loudly that he doesn`t have them here but they can be found around the corner...funny moment :-).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coca_tea
Rica Rica
Also good to get rid of the bad impact of the altitude, this herb can be found on the Altiplanica, meaning at around 3500-4000m above sea level.Its just a matter of finding the plant, as it only gets to about 40cm high at the max. But we found it :-)...
Locals are using it as cure for stomach ache, to clean up the kidneys and for heart issues. The taste is quite fresh, sweet and remembers one to the smell of wood. All in all very tasty. And the entire taste comes from only a little branch of the plant.
Chachacoma
Growing in the same altitude than Rica Rica, this third plant is as well used to remain fit in high altitudes.
To describe the taste is quite difficult; must be something between...well, its really hard to say. Lets just say it tastes delicious and I would drink also for the 4 o`clock tea together with some cookies.
Shades of blue - Lake Titicaca
Ancient inland sea
Lake Titicaca straddles both Peru and Bolivia. It's world's largest high altitude lake. The settlements along the lake shore are traditional Ayamara villages. Note, that you are 3800m above the sea level with Cordilliera Real peaks (4000m) in the background.
Spectacular lake views
Traveling from La Paz we stopped in Copacabana (Bolivian site).
Lake Titicaca is impressive.
It makes you understand why did Incas consider it as a sacred place.They believed that it was a birthplace of their civilization.
Entering Isla de la Luna:
The origin of the name Titicaca is unknown. It has been translated as "Rock Puma", as local communities have traditionally interpreted the shape of the lake to be that of a puma hunting a rabbit. "Titicaca" combines words from the local languages Quechua and Aymara.
If you want to get off the main tourist track - take a trip to Isla de Sol and Isla de Luna. We could see it was organized only for tourists but in a much smaller scope. Additional plus is that you get your own chair on the roof ...
There are less than 2500 inhabitants in Isla de Sol and less than 50 in Isla de la Luna. Most of them belong to local tributaries. It's sad but you have to pay them to take a picture of them. Oh, and there are few checkpoints where we had to pay additionally. Yes, the tourists are exploited to the last penny ;-).
There are no cars on the islands and no big hotels. Since machines are not allowed on the island, all agriculture is done by hand.
Fresh trout - troucha fresca - caught in front of you and served with rice and salad for only 25 bolivianos - tastes delicious!
Pollera and manta
Clothing of Bolivian Andean women of indigenous descent includes the pollera (pleated-skirt), the 19th century European bowler hat, and the silky shawl known as a manta. Now it is also a symbol of pride in being indigenous. However, traditional dress is decreasing amongst the younger generation. As more young women move to cities, go to university, and work professional jobs, the polleras are being replaced by jeans and other Western style clothing.
The traditional skirts look like this:
Quinua is the basic food product:
Friday 19 April 2013
Evening in La Paz
Let the evening start with some coca (tea). You can find it here in all kind of sorts. Cheers.
Thursday 18 April 2013
Monday 15 April 2013
Back in the mountains
After spending few days in Arica, we arrived in Putre. We were the only tourists in the bus and I had a feeling that everyone is starring at us.
This 3 hours drive through curvy roads, around 4000m above thr sea level made us feel little dizzy.
The small town of Putre seems to be a little bit off the tourist track. What you get here is silence, calmness, great views, nice people.
We have to take care of the water. Luckily I have my water-hero :)
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